Climbing Kilimanjaro When travelling in Africa during the 1970s, I talked to someone who had climbed Kilimanjaro. He said the main difficulty was altitude sickness. An eighty-year-old grandmother made it but a young German athlete didn’t make it. In the case of the acquaintance with whom I was talking, his problem was the descent. His toes pushed against the end of his boots so that, by the time he finished, his toes were black and blue. He may have lost a toenail or two. I resolved that if I ever climbed Kilimanjaro, I would trim my toenails beforehand. Decades later, after turning eighty, I considered climbing Kilimanjaro. When might I try? Not during a rainy season. The short rainy season is from November to mid-December. The long rainy season is from mid-March to May. The short dry season between mid-December and mid-March is sometimes not so dry. The long dry season from June to October is sometimes not so dry in June or in October. “If I’m going to do it, I’ll try this September.” |
There are six official routes up the mountain. Three routes approach from the south, two routes from the west, and one route approaches the mountain from the north. In addition to these six, some tour operators have constructed a few unofficial routes by combining segments of the six trails to make a new route. Some even count seven routes on the mountain. Taking into account my ability, I sorted the various routes in order of least feasible for me to most feasible.
The Rongai Route
This route, the only one approaching the mountain from the north, is more remote and thus not as popular as other routes. However, it is not particularly challenging and it has a high success rate. Opinions vary, however. Another evaluation reports, “very tough final summit night” and “the success rate is lower.” (The success rate is lower on that route than on a couple of other routes.)
There is less rain on the north side of the mountain, so people who want to climb during a possibly wetter time of year could choose this route. As I was thinking of climbing in September, less chance of rain on the Rongai Route was not a factor. But the main reason for deciding against this route was fewer fellow climbers. There would be more chance of joining a group going up a more popular route.
The Shira Route, or Shira Plateau Route
This route, approaching the mountain from the west, starts on the Shira Plateau. People can ride up to the plateau in a vehicle and thus begin their climb at a high altitude. This may seem like an advantage but not necessarily so when considering acclimatization. Also they miss hiking through the scenic western forest on the way to the plateau.
On the plateau, there is a choice of which campsite to head to. If arriving late, they could hike for an hour and a bit along a narrow trail to Shira 1 Camp where they would meet those climbing up through the forest. If having more time, they could follow a track to Simba Cave Camp. Those from both groups trek eastward on the Lemosho Route to the south side of Kibo. As most of the Shira Route is similar to the Lemosho Route, if I were to chose one, I would choose the more popular Lemosho Route.
Another route on the Shira Plateau is the unofficial Northern Circuit Route. Depending on the tour operator chosen, people could begin by either climbing up to the Shira Plateau or being driven up to the plateau. Either way, they would stop at Sira 1 Camp for a night, or pass through it. Instead of continuing on the Lemosho Route, the Northern Circuit Route circles around the north of Kibo to meet up with the Rongai Route. This is the longest route on the mountain, taking eight or nine days. It gives people time to acclimatize. Someone with whom I chatted on a website was trying to persuade me to try this route but I decided against it as it is not as popular as others.
The Lemosho Route
This route begins by climbing to the Shira Plateau. The plateau being the unique feature with the western routes, some people refer to the Lemosho Route, like the Shira Route, as the Shira Plateau Route. The climb through the western forest takes a couple of days, however, rather than a couple of hours when driven to the plateau. Climbers would spend their second night at Shira 1 Camp.
From Shira 1 Camp, there are various options and side trips, all heading roughly eastward. The next night after Shira 1 Camp would probably be spent at Shira 2 Camp. The following day, hikers could head toward Barranco Camp, climbing up to Lava Tower along the way. There is an option at Lava Towers. Hardy mountaineers could turn north-east to climb the Western Breach to the crater rim, knocking a day off an otherwise seven or eight-day hike. Most hikers continue in a south-easterly direction to Barranco Camp, the busiest camp on the mountain as it accommodates climbers on the popular Machame Route.
At Barranco Camp, trekkers join those on the Machame Route so I will leave a description of the following days to my description of the Machame Route. If I were to choose the Lemosho Route, I would go with the majority––those going to Barranco Camp rather than those climbing the Western Breach.
The Umbwe Route
Although I said earlier that I would discuss the routes from least feasible for me to most feasible, the Umbwe Route was the first that I eliminated. I had read that it was no longer an option. I have since heard that it is still possible to go up that route, but few companies offer to take people that way.
The Umbwe Route is the shortest and steepest route up the mountain. Because it is the shortest, it is the route chosen by those who want to climb the mountain quickly. The fastest known time up Kilimanjaro was by this route. In 2014, Karl Egloff, a Swiss/Ecuadorian climber, made it in 4 hours and 56 minutes. He also holds the record for the fastest time up and down Kilimanjaro––6 hours, 42 minutes and 24 seconds. He went up the Umbwe Route and down the Mweka Route.
If climbing the Umbwe Route over a few days, on reaching Barranco Camp, climbers would most probably continue on the Machame Route, following the southern circuit to the summit. A five-day climb is not recommended. Six days is better and seven days better yet. The difference between a six and seven-day climb is an additional acclimatisation day at Barranco Camp. As with the Machame Route, the descent is via the Mweka Route.
The Mweka Route (not included in official routes up Kilimanjaro)
This is another short route up and down the mountain, which is the reason that it is almost exclusively used for descent because the ascent would be difficult and bad for acclimatization. It is the most direct route down for people coming off the summit on the Lemosho and Machame Routes, rather than retracing the route used for the ascent. Like the Umbwe Route, there was no thought of me attempting to climb Kilimanjaro via the Mweka Route.
Thinking about this, as the Mweka Route is the most direct route down, it could be used, but isn’t, even by successful summiteers on the Marangu Route. But they wouldn’t have their gear with them unless their porters somehow crossed over from the Marangu Route to the Mweka Route.
The Machame Route
The Machame Route is, by most reports, the most popular. Beginning at Machame Gate, trekkers hike up through the rainforest to Machame Camp, also known as Machame Hut Campsite because of a rangers’ hut that used to be there. From there they climb to the Shira Plateau and Shira Camp, meeting up with trekkers on the Shira and Lemosho routes. The route from there ascends to Lava Tower, then descends to the popular Barranco Camp.
Barranco Camp is below the impressive Barranco Wall, the challenge for the following morning. The wall is jokingly referred to as the breakfast wall because some people deposit their breakfast on it. After successfully climbing the wall, trekkers would begin an arguably more difficult hike to the Karanga Valley and on to Barafu Camp for a little sleep before the night’s summit attempt. Technically speaking, the night climb is relatively simple. The challenging part is the high altitude making even regular physical activity feel strenuous.
The plan is to reach Stella Point just before sunrise. From Stella Point to Uhuru Peak is less than an hour’s trek, shorter than it is when coming up the other main route to Gilman’s Point. Those successfully ascending to the summit could consider descending to a glacier before returning to Barafu Camp.
After resting for a couple of hours at Barafu Camp, they would go down the steep Mweka trail to Millennium Camp. Most would spend the night there before descending to Mweka Gate to receive their certificates. Those who didn’t quite make it to the summit would receive a certificate saying they successfully climbed Kilimanjaro to Stella Point.
I was seriously considering this route but worried about the Barranco Wall. But it may not be as challenging as some people make it out to be. The climb takes little more than an hour and in only a couple of places would we need to use our hands when climbing.
The Marangu Route
The Marangu Route is the oldest route up Kilimanjaro and, at one time, the most popular. Trekkers get to sleep in cabins along the way, rather than in tents as on other routes. It is one of the shorter routes. In the past, people tried to make it to the summit and back down in just five days, but now most take six days, staying an extra day at Horombo Hut to acclimatize.
The route is popularly called the Coca-Cola route as at one time it was possible to buy soft drinks at the huts along the way. The story is that some tour operators started to use this nickname to discredit the Marangu Route. These agencies wanted to promote the Machame Route, calling it the Whiskey Route, suggesting a hard, “macho” route. But it also implied that the Marangu Route was one that softies would take. The Marangu Route, however, can’t be said to be easy as a larger proportion of people fail on this route than on any other.
The Marangu Route starts 220 m (720 ft) higher than the Machame Route, although this isn’t much of an advantage. What is attractive, is having accommodation along the way. Mandara Hut has room for 70 trekkers, Horombo Hut has more than double that number, and Kibo Hut has just 58 beds. (The extra beds at Horombo are necessary because they are also used by those descending from Kibo.) The beds in the rooms have pillows and mattresses only, so sleeping bags still need to be carried up the mountain. The fact that there are no tents to carry means fewer porters than on other routes.
Although Marangu is a popular route, it has drawbacks. It gives trekkers little time for acclimatization. Another drawback is the difficult night trek from Kibo to Gilman’s Point and on to Uhuru Peak. Yet another drawback is that it is the only route where trekkers ascend and descend via the same path, essentially seeing the same scenery twice. However, it is possible to take an alternative route from Kibo to Horombo. I will write more about the Marangu Route later.
Studying the various routes, I knew my preferences but hesitated to make a final decision about actually attempting the climb. I would first concentrate on minor items that wouldn’t be a loss if I decided not to go to Tanzania. Gear to bring included “Hiking Boots, warm, waterproof, broken-in.” It is suggested that the boots be a half size larger than usual to accommodate thick socks, or two pairs of socks, when making the climb to the summit. The extra half size is to ensure that, on the descent, a person’s toes don’t push against the toe of the boot.
I bought lightweight, waterproof, hiking boots, slightly larger than needed when wearing one pair of socks. I proceeded to break them in by climbing the “mountain” near where I was living. From my home to the top is about 400 metres. At first I could do it in a little more than an hour. After a few weeks, I could do it in a little less than an hour, carrying a weighted backpack.
In order to climb Kilimanjaro, a person needs to be under the supervision of a tour company. The operator hires guides, porters, cooks, and all necessary personnel. When making enquiries, I contacted several operators by email. They were all helpful and hopeful that I would choose them. Thus, when I finally decided on an operator, I felt guilty having to inform some that they hadn’t been chosen.
Some operators restrict older people from joining their groups, perhaps thinking that older people would have more difficulty keeping up with the youngsters. The narrowest age range posted on a certain website was 18–39, perhaps indicating they preferred fun-loving people. Other operators posted acceptable age ranges from as low as 5 years of age to as high as 101 years of age. However, another website cautioned about children under 12 attempting the climb. As of the time of writing, the oldest person to climb Mount Kilimanjaro is Anne Lorimor, aged 89, who reached Uhuru Peak in July 2019.
Some operators offer, or used to offer, supplemental oxygen for those on their final climb to the summit. Others, however, warn about using oxygen except in conjunction with immediate descent. Supplemental oxygen delays or stops altogether the acclimatization process. Thus, by climbing higher, people are relying on extra oxygen to remain healthy.
Up until this time, I hadn’t told anyone of my plan to climb Kilimanjaro. Before telling my wife, I asked our son if he would join me, offering to pay for the climb but not for the flight to Tanzania. My reasoning for offering to pay only part of the expenses was that he would appreciate it more if he paid a part. He googled “deaths on kilimanjaro” and read a report saying that there were about 4 to 7 deaths per year. (That actually is very low considering 30,000 to 50,000 people attempt the climb each year.) He assumed the bodies were taken down from the mountain, unlike Mt. Everest where they are just left there.
Before committing myself to an operator and paying a deposit, I thought I should start the process of getting a Tanzanian visa. Most nationalities need a visa to enter Tanzania, and Americans need a more expensive visa, presumably because they are generally able to pay more. It is possible to get a visa upon arrival, but getting an e-visa ahead of time avoids the hassle of lineups at the point of entry. If for some reason I were to cancel my plans, I would simply consider the expense of the visa to be a loss.
I googled “Tanzanian visa” and proceeded to apply online, failing to be suspicious about the website address ending “.org.” When filling out the form, I gave them the name of the airline with which I was considering flying to Kilimanjaro, and my probable arrival and departure dates. They also wanted a hotel booking. I told them that I would be staying at a hotel in Moshi but hadn’t booked yet. They responded that they were processing the application and needed USD 69 for the visa. That included the government fee and the visa fee. I had read that a visa cost $65 so $69 seemed reasonable. I paid the $69.
Then I got an email saying, “The total fee for evisa is 164 usd/pax. We received your payment of 69 USD so you need to pay extra 95 USD at this link: https://www.tanzaniaimmigration.org/make-payment to process the visa."
This prompted me to read the visa guidelines that I had received amongst other info from one of the tour companies that I had contacted. The first guideline reads, “Applicants of Visa are strongly advised to read carefully the Visa Guidelines before making an application.” The second guideline reads, “Visa applicants are advised to make their applications through the Official Tanzania Immigration website (www.immigration.go.tz) ONLY and Not through any other links.”
I commenced applying through the proper channel.
The official site wanted proof of a ticket out of Tanzania, an address where I would be staying in Tanzania, and the name, address, and telephone number of a contact person. Thus, I had to make decisions. I chose Popote Africa Adventures, a company that was solely local. Popote recommended the six-day Marangu Route and gave me several possible start dates. I chose September 13th and decided to book my flight to arrive at the Kilimanjaro airport a few days beforehand.
Our son thought we could get to Tanzania more cheaply than with the airline I was considering, KLM,flying from Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro. This prompted me to search again, finding Ethiopian Airlines and booking with them. The flight with Ethiopian Airlines would be from Toronto to Addis Ababa, and from there to Kilimanjaro, arriving in Kilimanjaro on the 10th of September.
I was thinking that Popote had others who were climbing Kilimanjaro and I, or my son and I, would join a group. After I got to Moshi, so I thought, I would find out who the other climbers would be. More important was the name, address, and telephone number of the contact person, and the name and address of the hotel where I would be staying. I was given relevant names and addresses so that I could include them on my visa application. Incidentally, I didn’t end up staying at the hotel where I said I would be staying on my visa application.
Even without Popote’s recommendation, I was considering trying the Marangu Route, as it is one of the most popular routes. However, it has the lowest success rate of all the routes, probably because others like me who are not in their peak performance tend to choose that route. Climbers now almost always spend six days on that route, staying two nights instead of one at Horombo Hut in order to get better acclimatized. I planned for that rest day, but when the time came, I discovered that my guide had other plans.
At an auspicious time, I told my wife that I was considering attempting to climb Kilimanjaro. “Why?” she responded. “What will you get out of it, besides bragging rights?” The conversation continued with her advising me not to go. Old men need to acknowledge their limitations. We dropped the subject, with her believing that she had convinced me not to go. It was only after she overheard our son helping me enter my flight details on the e-visa application that she realized that I had decided to go.
Meanwhile, our son had bought a car on an instalment plan, so needed to continue working in order to make payments. He decided not to join me. My wife might have joined me if she had known about it earlier and if our old dog could have managed without her. She wouldn’t have attempted to climb Kilimanjaro but would probably have gone on a safari while I was climbing.
I consulted Popote’s packing list––Gear to Bring for Your Kilimanjaro Climb:
Technical Clothing:
1 - Waterproof Jacket, breathable with hood - $15
1 - Insulated Jacket, synthetic or down - $15
1 - Soft Jacket, fleece or soft-shell - $10
2 - Long Sleeve Shirt, light-weight, moisture-wicking fabric - $10
1 - Short Sleeve Shirt, light-weight, moisture-wicking fabric - $10
1 - Waterproof Pants, breathable (side zipper recommended) - $ 5
2 - Hiking Pants - $10
1 - Fleece Pants - $5
1 - Shorts (optional) - $5
1 - Long Underwear, moisture-wicking fabric - $5
3 - Underwear, moisture-wicking fabric recommended - $5
2 - Sport Bra (women)
Head Wear
1 - Brimmed Hat, for sun protection - $5
1 - Knit Hat, for warmth - $ 5
1 - Balaclava or Buff, for face coverage (optional) - $5
Hand Wear
1 - Gloves, warm (waterproof recommended) - $5
1 - Gloves, thin - $ 5
Footwear
1 - Hiking Boots, warm, waterproof, broken-in - $20
1 - Gym Shoes, to wear at camp (optional)
3 - Socks, wool or synthetic - $5
1 - Gaiters, waterproof (optional) - $5
Equipment
1 - Sleeping Bag, warm, four seasons - $35
1 - Camp Pillow, inflatable (optional)
1 - Trekking Poles, collapsible (highly recommended) - $10
1 - Head Lamp, with extra batteries - $20
1 - Duffel Bag, 50-90L capacity, for porters to carry your equipment - $15
1 - Daypack, 30-35L capacity, for you to carry your personal gear - $15
Accessories:
1 - Sunglasses or Goggles
1 - Backpack Cover, waterproof (optional)
1 - Water Bottle (Nalgene, 32 oz.)
1 - Water Bladder (Camelbak type, 3 liters)
1 - Towel, lightweight, quick-dry (optional)
1 - Pee Bottle, to avoid leaving room/tent at night (recommended)
Note: Stuff Sacks, Dry Bags or "Ziploc"-Type Plastic Bags, to keep gear dry and separate. Note that there is a general ban on plastic bags in Tanzania, however Ziploc-type bags for toiletries are permitted for tourists.
Other Important things:
- Toiletries - Prescriptions - Sunscreen - Lip Balm - Insect Repellent, containing DEET
- First Aid Kit - Hand Sanitizer - Toilet Paper - Wet Wipes (recommended)
- Snacks, lightweight, high calorie, high energy (optional)
- Electrolytes, powder or tablets (optional)
- Camera, with extra batteries (optional)
Paperwork
Passport – Valid more than 6 months. Visa (applied online but also available at JRO) Immunization Papers. Insurance Document (That covers 6000m recommended)
Most of the clothing requirements I already had, but to reduce baggage decided to rent an “insulated jacket” that would be needed on the cold hike to the summit. Rather than warm gloves, I decided to take mitts to wear over thinner gloves during that hike. When checking my equipment before the climb, however, Popote lent me a better pair of mitts. The rent prices in Popote’s checklist are in American dollars.
I had already decided to rent a sleeping bag rather than to take one in my checked baggage, but I checked to see what a ‘four seasons” sleeping bag would be. It is one that is good for down to –15o C, or 0o F. It shouldn’t get that cold, however, in a room at Kibo Hut, the highest altitude at which I would be sleeping. By September it is beginning to warm up. July and August are the coldest months.
Another item was the duffel bag. Although I did have one, I decided not to take it but to rent one. When the time came, I got a nice bag with Popote Africa Adventures written on it for a porter to carry my sleeping bag, winter coat, and other things that I wouldn’t need during the daily climb.
After discovering what a water bladder is–– a bag that holds water with a tube that stretches over the shoulder so that hikers or bikers can drink hands free––I finally found one in a bicycle shop. It was even a three litre Camelbak type. I may not have been drinking as much water as I should have while hiking as the three litres would last me all the way to Kibo Hut.
I finally found, and bought, insect repellant that contained DEET, but didn’t need to use it in the end.There are few mosquitos in the Kilimanjaro area, in September anyway. I was told that there was no problem with malaria around Kilimanjaro. On my other trips around Tanzania, I didn’t encounter mosquitos either. In my hotel rooms, however, mosquito nets that could be lowered over the beds were standard equipment.
On a safari after my climb, I did use a little insect repellant, following my safari guide’s recommendation, but I didn’t see, hear or feel any mosquitos. I didn’t see any tsetse flies either although the game park where I was, Tarangire, has a problem with tsetse flies at other times of the year. I was there in the park and at Kilimanjaro during one of the driest months, September.
Instead of a camera, I took my phone. Instead of extra batteries, I took a battery pack. I had thought of getting a little solar panel that I could attach to my daypack and charge the phone battery while climbing, but none of the stores in my vicinity had such a panel. On the climb, I realized that a battery pack was more practical anyway.
The phone was mostly for taking photos. I had been told that telephone reception was not possible while on the mountain. However, I was to learn that in at least one location, Horombo Hut, it was possible to connect to Wi-Fi and make phone calls using WhatsApp.
I didn’t need immunization papers showing I was vaccinated against yellow fever as I wasn’t coming from a country where yellow fever was a problem. Another route to Tanzania would have been to fly to Nairobi in Kenya and proceed from there. If the stop in Kenya is less than a twelve-hour layover at the airport, a yellow fever shot isn’t required. But I was thinking, if going to Kenya, that I would stay longer in order to see more of the country.
When considering flight insurance, I read, “Insurance is only available to travellers 65 years old and below.” I dislike buying insurance anyway. But it seemed that we were required to have rescue insurance when climbing Kilimanjaro. I contacted an international insurance company. Since I was over 75 years of age and since I was climbing above 4,500 metres, insurance including helicopter rescue would be inordinately expensive. I decided to go without. When arriving in Tanzania, I found that non-helicopter rescue insurance was included in the high park fees that every tour operator offering guided climbs had to pay.
The American dollar is the foreign currency of choice. In fact, if getting a Tanzanian visa upon entering the country, it is necessary to pay in American dollars, and they stipulate that the currency must be from the year 2006 and up. I arranged to buy American dollars at a foreign exchange office in Vancouver, the city exchange offering a better exchange rate than the branch at the airport. I had plenty of time between flights to go into the city. As it turned out, I had much more time than I thought.
My first roadblock had been my contact with the unofficial e-visa office, delaying the visa process. My genuine e-visa arrived a few days before my departure date. The day before my flight to Vancouver, I was packed up and ready to go. I had read an advisory about wearing the boots on the plane in case checked baggage arrived at the Kilimanjaro airport too late. Instead, I put the boots in the carry-on backpack I borrowed from my son. Remembering the story from decades earlier, I cut my toenails.
The next roadblock was literal––a rockslide blocked the highway between the town where I was living and Kelowna from where I would be flying to Vancouver. After exploring several options, I chose to take a water taxi on Lake Okanagan around the rockslide. Someone that I met on the taxi gave me a ride to West Kelowna from where I caught a taxi to the Kelowna airport, arriving in plenty of time to catch my flight.
The next problem was with my Air Canada night flight to Toronto where I would be catching the connecting flight with Ethiopian Airlines. Late in the evening it was announced that the Air Canada flight would be delayed by an hour. Not a serious problem, I thought, as I would still have time to catch the connecting flight. Then it was announced that the flight would be delayed another hour and a half. “Oh, oh.” Then it was announced that the flight was cancelled.
It was well after midnight, after getting vouchers for a hotel, taxis and meals, and after a long phone call arranging an alternative flight, that I took a taxi to the hotel. In the morning, because phone enquiries weren’t working concerning the new flight arrangement, I took a taxi back to the airport. The taxi driver told me that Friday night Air Canada flights from Vancouver to Toronto were often cancelled.
At the airport, I was told that I simply needed to wait until the Turkish Airlines desk opened late that afternoon. That was the airline with which I would now be flying to Kilimanjaro International Airport. So I waited, the last hour of my wait near the front of the line before the Turkish Airlines desk. The flight was delayed an hour or so which caused me to worry about catching my connecting flight in Istanbul.
Finally we were airborne, arriving in Istanbul the next day. A half-hour’s fast walk got me to my departure gate at the other end of the terminal a few minutes after the scheduled departure time. I rushed up to the desk. The attendant at the desk told me to join the other passengers waiting to board––sitting around in the departure lounge. Perhaps the flight was delayed so that my suitcase could be transferred. I collected it when disembarking at Kilimanjaro.
It was in the middle of the night that a number of us disembarked at Kilimanjaro, the majority carrying on to Zanzibar. After collecting my checked baggage and completing the paperwork––considerably less paperwork than for those who had to get a Tanzanian visa–– I exited the airport, passing a number of Tanzanian men holding up signs. One of the signs read “Popote Africa Adventures” with JAMES written in large letters. I had made it!
I was driven to my hotel in Moshi where I spent the rest of the night and the next day, partly recovering from jetlag. One of Popote’s employees, Innocent (his actual name), came to see me. He took me to a money changer where I bought thousands of Tanzanian shillings for a few American dollars. It worked out that one dollar was approximately equal to two and half thousand Tanzanian shillings. Innocent told me that there were still coins in circulation but I didn’t see any during my time in Tanzania.
Having shillings, I was now taken to a pharmacy where I bought Diamox. Ordinarily I prefer not to take drugs, but Popote was recommending that climbers begin taking Diamox the day before the climb, half a pill with supper and the other half with breakfast the next morning. Diamox tricks the body into breathing more, thus increasing the oxygen content in the blood.
The Rongai Route
This route, the only one approaching the mountain from the north, is more remote and thus not as popular as other routes. However, it is not particularly challenging and it has a high success rate. Opinions vary, however. Another evaluation reports, “very tough final summit night” and “the success rate is lower.” (The success rate is lower on that route than on a couple of other routes.)
There is less rain on the north side of the mountain, so people who want to climb during a possibly wetter time of year could choose this route. As I was thinking of climbing in September, less chance of rain on the Rongai Route was not a factor. But the main reason for deciding against this route was fewer fellow climbers. There would be more chance of joining a group going up a more popular route.
The Shira Route, or Shira Plateau Route
This route, approaching the mountain from the west, starts on the Shira Plateau. People can ride up to the plateau in a vehicle and thus begin their climb at a high altitude. This may seem like an advantage but not necessarily so when considering acclimatization. Also they miss hiking through the scenic western forest on the way to the plateau.
On the plateau, there is a choice of which campsite to head to. If arriving late, they could hike for an hour and a bit along a narrow trail to Shira 1 Camp where they would meet those climbing up through the forest. If having more time, they could follow a track to Simba Cave Camp. Those from both groups trek eastward on the Lemosho Route to the south side of Kibo. As most of the Shira Route is similar to the Lemosho Route, if I were to chose one, I would choose the more popular Lemosho Route.
Another route on the Shira Plateau is the unofficial Northern Circuit Route. Depending on the tour operator chosen, people could begin by either climbing up to the Shira Plateau or being driven up to the plateau. Either way, they would stop at Sira 1 Camp for a night, or pass through it. Instead of continuing on the Lemosho Route, the Northern Circuit Route circles around the north of Kibo to meet up with the Rongai Route. This is the longest route on the mountain, taking eight or nine days. It gives people time to acclimatize. Someone with whom I chatted on a website was trying to persuade me to try this route but I decided against it as it is not as popular as others.
The Lemosho Route
This route begins by climbing to the Shira Plateau. The plateau being the unique feature with the western routes, some people refer to the Lemosho Route, like the Shira Route, as the Shira Plateau Route. The climb through the western forest takes a couple of days, however, rather than a couple of hours when driven to the plateau. Climbers would spend their second night at Shira 1 Camp.
From Shira 1 Camp, there are various options and side trips, all heading roughly eastward. The next night after Shira 1 Camp would probably be spent at Shira 2 Camp. The following day, hikers could head toward Barranco Camp, climbing up to Lava Tower along the way. There is an option at Lava Towers. Hardy mountaineers could turn north-east to climb the Western Breach to the crater rim, knocking a day off an otherwise seven or eight-day hike. Most hikers continue in a south-easterly direction to Barranco Camp, the busiest camp on the mountain as it accommodates climbers on the popular Machame Route.
At Barranco Camp, trekkers join those on the Machame Route so I will leave a description of the following days to my description of the Machame Route. If I were to choose the Lemosho Route, I would go with the majority––those going to Barranco Camp rather than those climbing the Western Breach.
The Umbwe Route
Although I said earlier that I would discuss the routes from least feasible for me to most feasible, the Umbwe Route was the first that I eliminated. I had read that it was no longer an option. I have since heard that it is still possible to go up that route, but few companies offer to take people that way.
The Umbwe Route is the shortest and steepest route up the mountain. Because it is the shortest, it is the route chosen by those who want to climb the mountain quickly. The fastest known time up Kilimanjaro was by this route. In 2014, Karl Egloff, a Swiss/Ecuadorian climber, made it in 4 hours and 56 minutes. He also holds the record for the fastest time up and down Kilimanjaro––6 hours, 42 minutes and 24 seconds. He went up the Umbwe Route and down the Mweka Route.
If climbing the Umbwe Route over a few days, on reaching Barranco Camp, climbers would most probably continue on the Machame Route, following the southern circuit to the summit. A five-day climb is not recommended. Six days is better and seven days better yet. The difference between a six and seven-day climb is an additional acclimatisation day at Barranco Camp. As with the Machame Route, the descent is via the Mweka Route.
The Mweka Route (not included in official routes up Kilimanjaro)
This is another short route up and down the mountain, which is the reason that it is almost exclusively used for descent because the ascent would be difficult and bad for acclimatization. It is the most direct route down for people coming off the summit on the Lemosho and Machame Routes, rather than retracing the route used for the ascent. Like the Umbwe Route, there was no thought of me attempting to climb Kilimanjaro via the Mweka Route.
Thinking about this, as the Mweka Route is the most direct route down, it could be used, but isn’t, even by successful summiteers on the Marangu Route. But they wouldn’t have their gear with them unless their porters somehow crossed over from the Marangu Route to the Mweka Route.
The Machame Route
The Machame Route is, by most reports, the most popular. Beginning at Machame Gate, trekkers hike up through the rainforest to Machame Camp, also known as Machame Hut Campsite because of a rangers’ hut that used to be there. From there they climb to the Shira Plateau and Shira Camp, meeting up with trekkers on the Shira and Lemosho routes. The route from there ascends to Lava Tower, then descends to the popular Barranco Camp.
Barranco Camp is below the impressive Barranco Wall, the challenge for the following morning. The wall is jokingly referred to as the breakfast wall because some people deposit their breakfast on it. After successfully climbing the wall, trekkers would begin an arguably more difficult hike to the Karanga Valley and on to Barafu Camp for a little sleep before the night’s summit attempt. Technically speaking, the night climb is relatively simple. The challenging part is the high altitude making even regular physical activity feel strenuous.
The plan is to reach Stella Point just before sunrise. From Stella Point to Uhuru Peak is less than an hour’s trek, shorter than it is when coming up the other main route to Gilman’s Point. Those successfully ascending to the summit could consider descending to a glacier before returning to Barafu Camp.
After resting for a couple of hours at Barafu Camp, they would go down the steep Mweka trail to Millennium Camp. Most would spend the night there before descending to Mweka Gate to receive their certificates. Those who didn’t quite make it to the summit would receive a certificate saying they successfully climbed Kilimanjaro to Stella Point.
I was seriously considering this route but worried about the Barranco Wall. But it may not be as challenging as some people make it out to be. The climb takes little more than an hour and in only a couple of places would we need to use our hands when climbing.
The Marangu Route
The Marangu Route is the oldest route up Kilimanjaro and, at one time, the most popular. Trekkers get to sleep in cabins along the way, rather than in tents as on other routes. It is one of the shorter routes. In the past, people tried to make it to the summit and back down in just five days, but now most take six days, staying an extra day at Horombo Hut to acclimatize.
The route is popularly called the Coca-Cola route as at one time it was possible to buy soft drinks at the huts along the way. The story is that some tour operators started to use this nickname to discredit the Marangu Route. These agencies wanted to promote the Machame Route, calling it the Whiskey Route, suggesting a hard, “macho” route. But it also implied that the Marangu Route was one that softies would take. The Marangu Route, however, can’t be said to be easy as a larger proportion of people fail on this route than on any other.
The Marangu Route starts 220 m (720 ft) higher than the Machame Route, although this isn’t much of an advantage. What is attractive, is having accommodation along the way. Mandara Hut has room for 70 trekkers, Horombo Hut has more than double that number, and Kibo Hut has just 58 beds. (The extra beds at Horombo are necessary because they are also used by those descending from Kibo.) The beds in the rooms have pillows and mattresses only, so sleeping bags still need to be carried up the mountain. The fact that there are no tents to carry means fewer porters than on other routes.
Although Marangu is a popular route, it has drawbacks. It gives trekkers little time for acclimatization. Another drawback is the difficult night trek from Kibo to Gilman’s Point and on to Uhuru Peak. Yet another drawback is that it is the only route where trekkers ascend and descend via the same path, essentially seeing the same scenery twice. However, it is possible to take an alternative route from Kibo to Horombo. I will write more about the Marangu Route later.
Studying the various routes, I knew my preferences but hesitated to make a final decision about actually attempting the climb. I would first concentrate on minor items that wouldn’t be a loss if I decided not to go to Tanzania. Gear to bring included “Hiking Boots, warm, waterproof, broken-in.” It is suggested that the boots be a half size larger than usual to accommodate thick socks, or two pairs of socks, when making the climb to the summit. The extra half size is to ensure that, on the descent, a person’s toes don’t push against the toe of the boot.
I bought lightweight, waterproof, hiking boots, slightly larger than needed when wearing one pair of socks. I proceeded to break them in by climbing the “mountain” near where I was living. From my home to the top is about 400 metres. At first I could do it in a little more than an hour. After a few weeks, I could do it in a little less than an hour, carrying a weighted backpack.
In order to climb Kilimanjaro, a person needs to be under the supervision of a tour company. The operator hires guides, porters, cooks, and all necessary personnel. When making enquiries, I contacted several operators by email. They were all helpful and hopeful that I would choose them. Thus, when I finally decided on an operator, I felt guilty having to inform some that they hadn’t been chosen.
Some operators restrict older people from joining their groups, perhaps thinking that older people would have more difficulty keeping up with the youngsters. The narrowest age range posted on a certain website was 18–39, perhaps indicating they preferred fun-loving people. Other operators posted acceptable age ranges from as low as 5 years of age to as high as 101 years of age. However, another website cautioned about children under 12 attempting the climb. As of the time of writing, the oldest person to climb Mount Kilimanjaro is Anne Lorimor, aged 89, who reached Uhuru Peak in July 2019.
Some operators offer, or used to offer, supplemental oxygen for those on their final climb to the summit. Others, however, warn about using oxygen except in conjunction with immediate descent. Supplemental oxygen delays or stops altogether the acclimatization process. Thus, by climbing higher, people are relying on extra oxygen to remain healthy.
Up until this time, I hadn’t told anyone of my plan to climb Kilimanjaro. Before telling my wife, I asked our son if he would join me, offering to pay for the climb but not for the flight to Tanzania. My reasoning for offering to pay only part of the expenses was that he would appreciate it more if he paid a part. He googled “deaths on kilimanjaro” and read a report saying that there were about 4 to 7 deaths per year. (That actually is very low considering 30,000 to 50,000 people attempt the climb each year.) He assumed the bodies were taken down from the mountain, unlike Mt. Everest where they are just left there.
Before committing myself to an operator and paying a deposit, I thought I should start the process of getting a Tanzanian visa. Most nationalities need a visa to enter Tanzania, and Americans need a more expensive visa, presumably because they are generally able to pay more. It is possible to get a visa upon arrival, but getting an e-visa ahead of time avoids the hassle of lineups at the point of entry. If for some reason I were to cancel my plans, I would simply consider the expense of the visa to be a loss.
I googled “Tanzanian visa” and proceeded to apply online, failing to be suspicious about the website address ending “.org.” When filling out the form, I gave them the name of the airline with which I was considering flying to Kilimanjaro, and my probable arrival and departure dates. They also wanted a hotel booking. I told them that I would be staying at a hotel in Moshi but hadn’t booked yet. They responded that they were processing the application and needed USD 69 for the visa. That included the government fee and the visa fee. I had read that a visa cost $65 so $69 seemed reasonable. I paid the $69.
Then I got an email saying, “The total fee for evisa is 164 usd/pax. We received your payment of 69 USD so you need to pay extra 95 USD at this link: https://www.tanzaniaimmigration.org/make-payment to process the visa."
This prompted me to read the visa guidelines that I had received amongst other info from one of the tour companies that I had contacted. The first guideline reads, “Applicants of Visa are strongly advised to read carefully the Visa Guidelines before making an application.” The second guideline reads, “Visa applicants are advised to make their applications through the Official Tanzania Immigration website (www.immigration.go.tz) ONLY and Not through any other links.”
I commenced applying through the proper channel.
The official site wanted proof of a ticket out of Tanzania, an address where I would be staying in Tanzania, and the name, address, and telephone number of a contact person. Thus, I had to make decisions. I chose Popote Africa Adventures, a company that was solely local. Popote recommended the six-day Marangu Route and gave me several possible start dates. I chose September 13th and decided to book my flight to arrive at the Kilimanjaro airport a few days beforehand.
Our son thought we could get to Tanzania more cheaply than with the airline I was considering, KLM,flying from Amsterdam to Kilimanjaro. This prompted me to search again, finding Ethiopian Airlines and booking with them. The flight with Ethiopian Airlines would be from Toronto to Addis Ababa, and from there to Kilimanjaro, arriving in Kilimanjaro on the 10th of September.
I was thinking that Popote had others who were climbing Kilimanjaro and I, or my son and I, would join a group. After I got to Moshi, so I thought, I would find out who the other climbers would be. More important was the name, address, and telephone number of the contact person, and the name and address of the hotel where I would be staying. I was given relevant names and addresses so that I could include them on my visa application. Incidentally, I didn’t end up staying at the hotel where I said I would be staying on my visa application.
Even without Popote’s recommendation, I was considering trying the Marangu Route, as it is one of the most popular routes. However, it has the lowest success rate of all the routes, probably because others like me who are not in their peak performance tend to choose that route. Climbers now almost always spend six days on that route, staying two nights instead of one at Horombo Hut in order to get better acclimatized. I planned for that rest day, but when the time came, I discovered that my guide had other plans.
At an auspicious time, I told my wife that I was considering attempting to climb Kilimanjaro. “Why?” she responded. “What will you get out of it, besides bragging rights?” The conversation continued with her advising me not to go. Old men need to acknowledge their limitations. We dropped the subject, with her believing that she had convinced me not to go. It was only after she overheard our son helping me enter my flight details on the e-visa application that she realized that I had decided to go.
Meanwhile, our son had bought a car on an instalment plan, so needed to continue working in order to make payments. He decided not to join me. My wife might have joined me if she had known about it earlier and if our old dog could have managed without her. She wouldn’t have attempted to climb Kilimanjaro but would probably have gone on a safari while I was climbing.
I consulted Popote’s packing list––Gear to Bring for Your Kilimanjaro Climb:
Technical Clothing:
1 - Waterproof Jacket, breathable with hood - $15
1 - Insulated Jacket, synthetic or down - $15
1 - Soft Jacket, fleece or soft-shell - $10
2 - Long Sleeve Shirt, light-weight, moisture-wicking fabric - $10
1 - Short Sleeve Shirt, light-weight, moisture-wicking fabric - $10
1 - Waterproof Pants, breathable (side zipper recommended) - $ 5
2 - Hiking Pants - $10
1 - Fleece Pants - $5
1 - Shorts (optional) - $5
1 - Long Underwear, moisture-wicking fabric - $5
3 - Underwear, moisture-wicking fabric recommended - $5
2 - Sport Bra (women)
Head Wear
1 - Brimmed Hat, for sun protection - $5
1 - Knit Hat, for warmth - $ 5
1 - Balaclava or Buff, for face coverage (optional) - $5
Hand Wear
1 - Gloves, warm (waterproof recommended) - $5
1 - Gloves, thin - $ 5
Footwear
1 - Hiking Boots, warm, waterproof, broken-in - $20
1 - Gym Shoes, to wear at camp (optional)
3 - Socks, wool or synthetic - $5
1 - Gaiters, waterproof (optional) - $5
Equipment
1 - Sleeping Bag, warm, four seasons - $35
1 - Camp Pillow, inflatable (optional)
1 - Trekking Poles, collapsible (highly recommended) - $10
1 - Head Lamp, with extra batteries - $20
1 - Duffel Bag, 50-90L capacity, for porters to carry your equipment - $15
1 - Daypack, 30-35L capacity, for you to carry your personal gear - $15
Accessories:
1 - Sunglasses or Goggles
1 - Backpack Cover, waterproof (optional)
1 - Water Bottle (Nalgene, 32 oz.)
1 - Water Bladder (Camelbak type, 3 liters)
1 - Towel, lightweight, quick-dry (optional)
1 - Pee Bottle, to avoid leaving room/tent at night (recommended)
Note: Stuff Sacks, Dry Bags or "Ziploc"-Type Plastic Bags, to keep gear dry and separate. Note that there is a general ban on plastic bags in Tanzania, however Ziploc-type bags for toiletries are permitted for tourists.
Other Important things:
- Toiletries - Prescriptions - Sunscreen - Lip Balm - Insect Repellent, containing DEET
- First Aid Kit - Hand Sanitizer - Toilet Paper - Wet Wipes (recommended)
- Snacks, lightweight, high calorie, high energy (optional)
- Electrolytes, powder or tablets (optional)
- Camera, with extra batteries (optional)
Paperwork
Passport – Valid more than 6 months. Visa (applied online but also available at JRO) Immunization Papers. Insurance Document (That covers 6000m recommended)
Most of the clothing requirements I already had, but to reduce baggage decided to rent an “insulated jacket” that would be needed on the cold hike to the summit. Rather than warm gloves, I decided to take mitts to wear over thinner gloves during that hike. When checking my equipment before the climb, however, Popote lent me a better pair of mitts. The rent prices in Popote’s checklist are in American dollars.
I had already decided to rent a sleeping bag rather than to take one in my checked baggage, but I checked to see what a ‘four seasons” sleeping bag would be. It is one that is good for down to –15o C, or 0o F. It shouldn’t get that cold, however, in a room at Kibo Hut, the highest altitude at which I would be sleeping. By September it is beginning to warm up. July and August are the coldest months.
Another item was the duffel bag. Although I did have one, I decided not to take it but to rent one. When the time came, I got a nice bag with Popote Africa Adventures written on it for a porter to carry my sleeping bag, winter coat, and other things that I wouldn’t need during the daily climb.
After discovering what a water bladder is–– a bag that holds water with a tube that stretches over the shoulder so that hikers or bikers can drink hands free––I finally found one in a bicycle shop. It was even a three litre Camelbak type. I may not have been drinking as much water as I should have while hiking as the three litres would last me all the way to Kibo Hut.
I finally found, and bought, insect repellant that contained DEET, but didn’t need to use it in the end.There are few mosquitos in the Kilimanjaro area, in September anyway. I was told that there was no problem with malaria around Kilimanjaro. On my other trips around Tanzania, I didn’t encounter mosquitos either. In my hotel rooms, however, mosquito nets that could be lowered over the beds were standard equipment.
On a safari after my climb, I did use a little insect repellant, following my safari guide’s recommendation, but I didn’t see, hear or feel any mosquitos. I didn’t see any tsetse flies either although the game park where I was, Tarangire, has a problem with tsetse flies at other times of the year. I was there in the park and at Kilimanjaro during one of the driest months, September.
Instead of a camera, I took my phone. Instead of extra batteries, I took a battery pack. I had thought of getting a little solar panel that I could attach to my daypack and charge the phone battery while climbing, but none of the stores in my vicinity had such a panel. On the climb, I realized that a battery pack was more practical anyway.
The phone was mostly for taking photos. I had been told that telephone reception was not possible while on the mountain. However, I was to learn that in at least one location, Horombo Hut, it was possible to connect to Wi-Fi and make phone calls using WhatsApp.
I didn’t need immunization papers showing I was vaccinated against yellow fever as I wasn’t coming from a country where yellow fever was a problem. Another route to Tanzania would have been to fly to Nairobi in Kenya and proceed from there. If the stop in Kenya is less than a twelve-hour layover at the airport, a yellow fever shot isn’t required. But I was thinking, if going to Kenya, that I would stay longer in order to see more of the country.
When considering flight insurance, I read, “Insurance is only available to travellers 65 years old and below.” I dislike buying insurance anyway. But it seemed that we were required to have rescue insurance when climbing Kilimanjaro. I contacted an international insurance company. Since I was over 75 years of age and since I was climbing above 4,500 metres, insurance including helicopter rescue would be inordinately expensive. I decided to go without. When arriving in Tanzania, I found that non-helicopter rescue insurance was included in the high park fees that every tour operator offering guided climbs had to pay.
The American dollar is the foreign currency of choice. In fact, if getting a Tanzanian visa upon entering the country, it is necessary to pay in American dollars, and they stipulate that the currency must be from the year 2006 and up. I arranged to buy American dollars at a foreign exchange office in Vancouver, the city exchange offering a better exchange rate than the branch at the airport. I had plenty of time between flights to go into the city. As it turned out, I had much more time than I thought.
My first roadblock had been my contact with the unofficial e-visa office, delaying the visa process. My genuine e-visa arrived a few days before my departure date. The day before my flight to Vancouver, I was packed up and ready to go. I had read an advisory about wearing the boots on the plane in case checked baggage arrived at the Kilimanjaro airport too late. Instead, I put the boots in the carry-on backpack I borrowed from my son. Remembering the story from decades earlier, I cut my toenails.
The next roadblock was literal––a rockslide blocked the highway between the town where I was living and Kelowna from where I would be flying to Vancouver. After exploring several options, I chose to take a water taxi on Lake Okanagan around the rockslide. Someone that I met on the taxi gave me a ride to West Kelowna from where I caught a taxi to the Kelowna airport, arriving in plenty of time to catch my flight.
The next problem was with my Air Canada night flight to Toronto where I would be catching the connecting flight with Ethiopian Airlines. Late in the evening it was announced that the Air Canada flight would be delayed by an hour. Not a serious problem, I thought, as I would still have time to catch the connecting flight. Then it was announced that the flight would be delayed another hour and a half. “Oh, oh.” Then it was announced that the flight was cancelled.
It was well after midnight, after getting vouchers for a hotel, taxis and meals, and after a long phone call arranging an alternative flight, that I took a taxi to the hotel. In the morning, because phone enquiries weren’t working concerning the new flight arrangement, I took a taxi back to the airport. The taxi driver told me that Friday night Air Canada flights from Vancouver to Toronto were often cancelled.
At the airport, I was told that I simply needed to wait until the Turkish Airlines desk opened late that afternoon. That was the airline with which I would now be flying to Kilimanjaro International Airport. So I waited, the last hour of my wait near the front of the line before the Turkish Airlines desk. The flight was delayed an hour or so which caused me to worry about catching my connecting flight in Istanbul.
Finally we were airborne, arriving in Istanbul the next day. A half-hour’s fast walk got me to my departure gate at the other end of the terminal a few minutes after the scheduled departure time. I rushed up to the desk. The attendant at the desk told me to join the other passengers waiting to board––sitting around in the departure lounge. Perhaps the flight was delayed so that my suitcase could be transferred. I collected it when disembarking at Kilimanjaro.
It was in the middle of the night that a number of us disembarked at Kilimanjaro, the majority carrying on to Zanzibar. After collecting my checked baggage and completing the paperwork––considerably less paperwork than for those who had to get a Tanzanian visa–– I exited the airport, passing a number of Tanzanian men holding up signs. One of the signs read “Popote Africa Adventures” with JAMES written in large letters. I had made it!
I was driven to my hotel in Moshi where I spent the rest of the night and the next day, partly recovering from jetlag. One of Popote’s employees, Innocent (his actual name), came to see me. He took me to a money changer where I bought thousands of Tanzanian shillings for a few American dollars. It worked out that one dollar was approximately equal to two and half thousand Tanzanian shillings. Innocent told me that there were still coins in circulation but I didn’t see any during my time in Tanzania.
Having shillings, I was now taken to a pharmacy where I bought Diamox. Ordinarily I prefer not to take drugs, but Popote was recommending that climbers begin taking Diamox the day before the climb, half a pill with supper and the other half with breakfast the next morning. Diamox tricks the body into breathing more, thus increasing the oxygen content in the blood.
Since I wouldn’t begin the climb for another two days, Innocent asked me if I would like to go on a hike the following day to see Materun Waterfalls. Perhaps he had been instructed to check out how an eighty-year-old would do on a two-hour trek. I accepted the proposal. Included, I was to find out, was a stop for coffee, involving first picking the coffee beans, then removing the shells, then roasting the beans, then beating the beans into powder, then boiling the powder, then drinking some of the coffee.
After we returned to the hotel, my guide-to-be, Florian, came to the hotel to check over the gear that I had brought for the climb. I had already arranged to rent the hiking poles that I used on the trek to the waterfalls, a sleeping bag, a winter coat, and a duffel bag, but Florian thought I needed some extra clothes yet. I agreed and paid for the rentals.
The only drinking water at the hotel was bottled water so I bought water and filled my water bladder and my own water bottle that I had been advised to bring. On the mountain, we were told, boiled drinking water would be provided. Perhaps that was principally the water in our hot beverages. Boiling water at a high altitude may not kill all the germs, anyway. At the altitude of Kibo Hut, 4,700 m, water boils at about 84o C.
Early the next morning, I was waiting in the hotel’s foyer with the packed duffel bag, my daypack, and a packed breakfast. As I would be leaving before breakfast time, I had asked for a packed breakfast. The rest of my luggage was stored in my suitcase in the hotel’s luggage room. (When retrieving it five and a half days later, my suitcase was among so many others that it took a while to find it.)
It was a rainy morning. I joined Florian, a cook, and three porters in the van driving to Marangu Gate, a little more than an hour’s drive from Moshi. Florian asked me if I liked beef. “Sure,” I replied. They stopped at a market along the way and bought some beef. They must have had chicken already with them as I ate more chicken than beef during the climb. I was well fed.
During the drive, I ate breakfast, swallowing also a half Diamox pill. Florian asked me if I had taken the other half the evening before, as he had instructed. I assured him that I had. Progress was slow as the speed limit was 50 kph for much of the way. The road is only a single lane each direction. When passing a slower vehicle, our driver seemed to pull up within mere centimetres of the vehicle he was passing before swinging out around it.
Oncoming trucks often had messages written across the top of the windscreen, as the British call the windshield––messages such as “God is Great” or “God is Good.” We were passing through Protestant, Catholic, and even Muslim communities. Florian told me that people of different denominations and religions lived peacefully with one another.
It was still raining when we arrived at the Marangu Gate entrance to the park. I took my poncho out of my daypack and donned it, covering also the daypack on my back. Florian had his own daypack with a waterproof covering. Other equipment and supplies needed to be weighed, porters not allowed to carry more than twenty kilos each, including their own gear. Responsible tour operators restrict other gear and supplies that a porter carries to fifteen kilos each.
Before climbing, everyone needs to get a climbing permit and register with the search and rescue service. Florian had taken a photo of the relevant page of my passport so I didn’t have to show my passport. All this was taking quite some time. Florian told me another delay was in hiring an extra porter. It is usual for a single climber to have three or four porters as well as a guide and cook. Counting the extra porter, I had four.
During the climb, I would meet couples, and in one case a father and daughter with seven porters. (Two climbers also need two guides in case one of the climbers gets sick or has to turn back while the other carries on.) And this was on the Marangu Route where we could stay in huts along the way. On other routes, people sleep in tents and eat in a communal tent, all of which needs to be transported up the mountain. Thus yet more porters are required.
While it is not possible to climb without hiring guides, it is possible, technically, to carry one’s own luggage and dispense with porters, but few companies accommodate such an arrangement. Compared to park fees and other expenses, the savings by not hiring guides are minimal. Besides, for those prone to altitude sickness, over-exerting oneself on the climb is not recommended.
For the proposed schedule, I will copy Popote’s itinerary for me:
DAY 1: Marangu Gate – Mandara Hut
After breakfast, you will be collected from your Hotel in Moshi and taken to the Marangu gate. Once the necessary paperwork has been completed, your trek can begin, and you will soon be hiking through the dense rainforest. Alongside the impressive vegetation, you will have the chance to catch a glimpse of some primates as you head to the Mandara Hut. After a well-earned rest, your guide can take you to the Maundi Crater where you can enjoy the wonderful view of the Kenyan interior.
Marangu Gate to Mandara Hut
Distance:8 km/5 miles
Elevation:6,046 ft to 8,858 ft
Hiking time: 4-5 hours
Habitat: Rain Forest
DAY 2: Mandara Hut – Horombo Hut
The day begins with an early breakfast. Shortly after you have left Mandara Hut, you will reach the timberline and then enter the heath and moor zone. Approximately 6– 7 hours later, the Horombo Hut will come into sight, standing at an altitude of 3700m. From the hut, you will have fantastic views overlooking Mawenzi, Kibo and the wide plain of the Masai steppe.
Mandara Hut to Horombo Hut
Distance: 12km/7miles
Elevation: 8,858 ft to 12,205ft
Hiking Time: 6-8hours
Habitat: Heath and Moorland
DAY 3: Horombo Hut – Zebra Rock – Horombo Hut
Today serves as an acclimatization day. This should not be underestimated and greatly improves your chance of success in reaching the summit. After a relaxing breakfast, a 4-hour trek follows to the Zebra Rocks (4020m). The distinctive black and white stripes give the rock formation its name. On your return to Horombo Hut, a warm lunch will be waiting for you. You can relax in the afternoon and regain your strength for the hike the following day.
Horombo Hut to Mawenzi Ridge
Distance: 5km/3miles
Elevation: 12,205ft to 14,400 ft
Hiking time: 2-3 hours
Habitat: Heath and Moorland
Mawenzi Ridge to Horombo Hut
Distance: 5km/3miles
Elevation: 14,400 ft to 12,205 ft
Hiking time: 1-2 hours
Habitat: Heath and Moorland
DAY 4: Horombo Hut – Kibo Camp
Today will begin with steep walking and rocky then, well-built trail passes the “Last Water point” which is followed by the so-called “saddle”. This nearly vegetation less plateau joins the main summit Kibo with Mawenzi. Today’s destination is the Kibo Hut that is usually reached in about 5 - 6 hours. Here, you will enjoy an early evening meal followed by an early night, as the night will be short.
Horombo Hut to Kibo Hut
Distance:10km/6miles
Elevation: 12,205 ft to 15,430 ft
Hiking time: 6 -8hours
Habitat: Alpine Desert
DAY 5: Kibo Camp – Uhuru Peak – Horombo camp.
Today is “The Big Day” - the summit stage. You will begin your final ascent around midnight which will be long and strenuous. Passing the Hans Meyer Cave at 5220m, the climb slowly but surely goes upwards. At sunrise, you will reach Gillman’s Point (5681m) – the crater rim of Kilimanjaro – where the sun will slowly start to warm up the land. You will have soon forgotten the cold of the night and after a further hike of 1 - 2 hours, you will reach Uhuru Peak at 5895m. On your return to Kibo Hut, a warm meal awaits you followed by a 1 - 2-hour break before proceeding back down to Horombo Hut.
Kibo Hut to Uhuru Peak
Distance: 6km/4miles
Elevation: 15,430 ft to 19,341 ft
Hiking time: 6-8hours
Habitat: Arctic
Uhuru Peak to Horombo Hut
Distance: 16km/10miles
Elevation: 19,341 ft to 12,205 ft
Hiking time: 4-5hours
Habitat: Heath and Moorland
DAY 6: Horombo camp – Marangu Gate.
The last stage passes through the heath and moor zone to the Mandara Hut (2700m) where a warm lunch is waiting for you. Soon, you will once again pass the tropical rainforest and after a total time of 6 hours trekking, you will be back at Marangu Gate (1860m). You will check out and get your certificate for those who successfully made to the top, you will get into your vehicle and drive to Parkview Inn Moshi.
Horombo Hut to Marangu Gate:
Distance: 20km/12miles
Elevation: 12,205 ft to 6,046 ft
Hiking time: 5-7 hours
Habitat: Rain forest zone
The delays at Marangu Gate meant that we wouldn’t be starting out till noon which wasn’t a problem as the first hike to Mandara Hut, 2,700 m (8,860 ft), would be only five hours. Florian and I took time to eat lunch under shelter from the rain. I had thought we would be climbing along with others, but Florian indicated it was time to set out, so the two of us started up the trail. Our cook and porters must have gone ahead of us as they didn’t pass us. Other porters climbing up the mountain with bags on their heads or shoulders passed us at breakneck speed.
After we returned to the hotel, my guide-to-be, Florian, came to the hotel to check over the gear that I had brought for the climb. I had already arranged to rent the hiking poles that I used on the trek to the waterfalls, a sleeping bag, a winter coat, and a duffel bag, but Florian thought I needed some extra clothes yet. I agreed and paid for the rentals.
The only drinking water at the hotel was bottled water so I bought water and filled my water bladder and my own water bottle that I had been advised to bring. On the mountain, we were told, boiled drinking water would be provided. Perhaps that was principally the water in our hot beverages. Boiling water at a high altitude may not kill all the germs, anyway. At the altitude of Kibo Hut, 4,700 m, water boils at about 84o C.
Early the next morning, I was waiting in the hotel’s foyer with the packed duffel bag, my daypack, and a packed breakfast. As I would be leaving before breakfast time, I had asked for a packed breakfast. The rest of my luggage was stored in my suitcase in the hotel’s luggage room. (When retrieving it five and a half days later, my suitcase was among so many others that it took a while to find it.)
It was a rainy morning. I joined Florian, a cook, and three porters in the van driving to Marangu Gate, a little more than an hour’s drive from Moshi. Florian asked me if I liked beef. “Sure,” I replied. They stopped at a market along the way and bought some beef. They must have had chicken already with them as I ate more chicken than beef during the climb. I was well fed.
During the drive, I ate breakfast, swallowing also a half Diamox pill. Florian asked me if I had taken the other half the evening before, as he had instructed. I assured him that I had. Progress was slow as the speed limit was 50 kph for much of the way. The road is only a single lane each direction. When passing a slower vehicle, our driver seemed to pull up within mere centimetres of the vehicle he was passing before swinging out around it.
Oncoming trucks often had messages written across the top of the windscreen, as the British call the windshield––messages such as “God is Great” or “God is Good.” We were passing through Protestant, Catholic, and even Muslim communities. Florian told me that people of different denominations and religions lived peacefully with one another.
It was still raining when we arrived at the Marangu Gate entrance to the park. I took my poncho out of my daypack and donned it, covering also the daypack on my back. Florian had his own daypack with a waterproof covering. Other equipment and supplies needed to be weighed, porters not allowed to carry more than twenty kilos each, including their own gear. Responsible tour operators restrict other gear and supplies that a porter carries to fifteen kilos each.
Before climbing, everyone needs to get a climbing permit and register with the search and rescue service. Florian had taken a photo of the relevant page of my passport so I didn’t have to show my passport. All this was taking quite some time. Florian told me another delay was in hiring an extra porter. It is usual for a single climber to have three or four porters as well as a guide and cook. Counting the extra porter, I had four.
During the climb, I would meet couples, and in one case a father and daughter with seven porters. (Two climbers also need two guides in case one of the climbers gets sick or has to turn back while the other carries on.) And this was on the Marangu Route where we could stay in huts along the way. On other routes, people sleep in tents and eat in a communal tent, all of which needs to be transported up the mountain. Thus yet more porters are required.
While it is not possible to climb without hiring guides, it is possible, technically, to carry one’s own luggage and dispense with porters, but few companies accommodate such an arrangement. Compared to park fees and other expenses, the savings by not hiring guides are minimal. Besides, for those prone to altitude sickness, over-exerting oneself on the climb is not recommended.
For the proposed schedule, I will copy Popote’s itinerary for me:
DAY 1: Marangu Gate – Mandara Hut
After breakfast, you will be collected from your Hotel in Moshi and taken to the Marangu gate. Once the necessary paperwork has been completed, your trek can begin, and you will soon be hiking through the dense rainforest. Alongside the impressive vegetation, you will have the chance to catch a glimpse of some primates as you head to the Mandara Hut. After a well-earned rest, your guide can take you to the Maundi Crater where you can enjoy the wonderful view of the Kenyan interior.
Marangu Gate to Mandara Hut
Distance:8 km/5 miles
Elevation:6,046 ft to 8,858 ft
Hiking time: 4-5 hours
Habitat: Rain Forest
DAY 2: Mandara Hut – Horombo Hut
The day begins with an early breakfast. Shortly after you have left Mandara Hut, you will reach the timberline and then enter the heath and moor zone. Approximately 6– 7 hours later, the Horombo Hut will come into sight, standing at an altitude of 3700m. From the hut, you will have fantastic views overlooking Mawenzi, Kibo and the wide plain of the Masai steppe.
Mandara Hut to Horombo Hut
Distance: 12km/7miles
Elevation: 8,858 ft to 12,205ft
Hiking Time: 6-8hours
Habitat: Heath and Moorland
DAY 3: Horombo Hut – Zebra Rock – Horombo Hut
Today serves as an acclimatization day. This should not be underestimated and greatly improves your chance of success in reaching the summit. After a relaxing breakfast, a 4-hour trek follows to the Zebra Rocks (4020m). The distinctive black and white stripes give the rock formation its name. On your return to Horombo Hut, a warm lunch will be waiting for you. You can relax in the afternoon and regain your strength for the hike the following day.
Horombo Hut to Mawenzi Ridge
Distance: 5km/3miles
Elevation: 12,205ft to 14,400 ft
Hiking time: 2-3 hours
Habitat: Heath and Moorland
Mawenzi Ridge to Horombo Hut
Distance: 5km/3miles
Elevation: 14,400 ft to 12,205 ft
Hiking time: 1-2 hours
Habitat: Heath and Moorland
DAY 4: Horombo Hut – Kibo Camp
Today will begin with steep walking and rocky then, well-built trail passes the “Last Water point” which is followed by the so-called “saddle”. This nearly vegetation less plateau joins the main summit Kibo with Mawenzi. Today’s destination is the Kibo Hut that is usually reached in about 5 - 6 hours. Here, you will enjoy an early evening meal followed by an early night, as the night will be short.
Horombo Hut to Kibo Hut
Distance:10km/6miles
Elevation: 12,205 ft to 15,430 ft
Hiking time: 6 -8hours
Habitat: Alpine Desert
DAY 5: Kibo Camp – Uhuru Peak – Horombo camp.
Today is “The Big Day” - the summit stage. You will begin your final ascent around midnight which will be long and strenuous. Passing the Hans Meyer Cave at 5220m, the climb slowly but surely goes upwards. At sunrise, you will reach Gillman’s Point (5681m) – the crater rim of Kilimanjaro – where the sun will slowly start to warm up the land. You will have soon forgotten the cold of the night and after a further hike of 1 - 2 hours, you will reach Uhuru Peak at 5895m. On your return to Kibo Hut, a warm meal awaits you followed by a 1 - 2-hour break before proceeding back down to Horombo Hut.
Kibo Hut to Uhuru Peak
Distance: 6km/4miles
Elevation: 15,430 ft to 19,341 ft
Hiking time: 6-8hours
Habitat: Arctic
Uhuru Peak to Horombo Hut
Distance: 16km/10miles
Elevation: 19,341 ft to 12,205 ft
Hiking time: 4-5hours
Habitat: Heath and Moorland
DAY 6: Horombo camp – Marangu Gate.
The last stage passes through the heath and moor zone to the Mandara Hut (2700m) where a warm lunch is waiting for you. Soon, you will once again pass the tropical rainforest and after a total time of 6 hours trekking, you will be back at Marangu Gate (1860m). You will check out and get your certificate for those who successfully made to the top, you will get into your vehicle and drive to Parkview Inn Moshi.
Horombo Hut to Marangu Gate:
Distance: 20km/12miles
Elevation: 12,205 ft to 6,046 ft
Hiking time: 5-7 hours
Habitat: Rain forest zone
The delays at Marangu Gate meant that we wouldn’t be starting out till noon which wasn’t a problem as the first hike to Mandara Hut, 2,700 m (8,860 ft), would be only five hours. Florian and I took time to eat lunch under shelter from the rain. I had thought we would be climbing along with others, but Florian indicated it was time to set out, so the two of us started up the trail. Our cook and porters must have gone ahead of us as they didn’t pass us. Other porters climbing up the mountain with bags on their heads or shoulders passed us at breakneck speed.
The trail was well-kept, in many places with proper steps made by piling earth behind a log across the trail. The trail wasn’t overly muddy despite the rain. This was the rainforest which receives 95% of the rainfall in Kilimanjaro Park. Trees and underbrush on either side of the trail could be described as jungle. Florian took photos and videos of a blue monkey and colobus monkeys. He was carrying my phone/camera as he was better able to protect it from the rain.
It was beginning to get dark when we arrived at Mandara Hut. Although the name might suggest one building, there are a number of wooden structures. Often people use the plural as in Mandara Huts, Horombo Huts, and Kibo Huts, but the signs at each camp are in the singular. Probably, originally, there was just one hut at each encampment.
The first thing to do at Mandara Hut was to sign in, as it would be also at the other two camps, and get a key for the room where I would be staying. When I entered my room, there was the duffel bag on my bed with my sleeping bag and dry clothes. My poncho hadn’t kept me and my daypack completely dry. The room was one half of a divided cabin with a young German couple on the other side of the wall. It would be the only time that I had a room for myself.
After changing into dry clothes, I headed for the dining hall. It was dark by this time. At low latitudes there is little twilight. I made my way to the dining room without using my headlamp. Later I would learn to take my headlamp with me to the dining room even when going there in daylight. When returning to my room after supper, it would be dark. Mealtimes were also an opportunity to talk to other climbers sitting at adjacent tables. During the next few days, I would get to know a number of people.
That evening, Florian joined me for a good supper. I don’t remember if the meat dish was beef or chicken, nor whether we ate rice or potatoes. Meals were generally the kind of food with which Westerners are accustomed. We had mugs into which we could add a choice of tea, coffee, or Milo before pouring in hot water. I would eventually settle on Milo only so they didn’t need to bother bringing out the tea and coffee. I didn’t drink any Coca-Cola.
In an advisory of what to drink, besides water, I had read: If you drink caffeine (coffee, tea, soda) regularly, do not stop drinking it before or during your trip. Caffeine is safe at high altitudes, and stopping it suddenly can cause symptoms similar to AMS.
Different people have different opinions. I read another advisory saying that drinking caffeine can cause problems. (Coca-Cola contains caffeine but no longer contains cocaine.)
Suppertime was the time when Florian measured my pulse and oxygen saturation level. He would put a pulse oximeter on my forefinger. My pulse was okay, but the saturation of oxygen in my blood may have been a bit low though he didn’t comment on it. 95% to 100% is normal.
The dining hall was dimly lit by battery power, with the batteries charged during the day by solar panels. There was also the occasional outside light, such as the one outside the toilet facility. I visited that facility before going to bed, finding only squat-down toilets, common in Africa. There at Mandara Hut on the edge of the rain forest there is an ample supply of water to flush the toilets and provide for people who don’t use toilet paper. These are the W.C. (Water Closet) type of toilet. Other routes usually have pit latrines.
At daybreak the next morning, my personal porter, Omben, brought me hot water and the usual choice of beverages. He also brought a basin of warm water for washing, as he would do on all subsequent mornings. He told me that breakfast would be ready, I think it was, in about three-quarters of an hour’s time, and I should have the duffel bag packed before going for breakfast.
Sipping Milo, washing, getting dressed, and visiting the toilet facility took time. Thus I didn’t have the duffel bag packed before being called for breakfast. I ate a hurried breakfast then returned to my room to pack my sleeping bag in the duffel bag, my still damp clothes which I put in ziplock plastic bags, and other things that I had taken out of the bag for the night. Consequently, Florian and I ended up starting out later than planned. Not a problem. Hiking time to Horombo Hut would be about seven hours.
This was one of the nicest days of the climb. It had stopped raining, at that altitude anyway. The higher we climbed, the drier it got. If we hadn’t had a late start, or the day before if we had arrived at Mandara Hut sooner, we might have gone on a side trip to Maundi Crater where we could have looked out over Kenya. The border between Tanzania and Kenya runs along the north-east side of Kilimanjaro, making a jog, in fact, so that all of Kilimanjaro is included in Tanzania.
Soon after leaving Mandara Hut, we left the rainforest and entered what is described as heath and moorland, with giant groundsel getting smaller the higher we climbed. There was at least one boardwalk that I remember over an area that would have been wet during a wetter season of the year.
Around noon we stopped to enjoy our packed lunches, always ample good food. In fact, it was often more than I wanted to eat. I was told to eat up––extra food was needed for extra energy. An American father and daughter were also eating at another concrete table, but didn’t get to eat all of their lunch. A raven swooped down and stole a cupcake right off their table.
This day’s climb was longer and steeper, climbing to Horombo Hut at 3,720 m (12,200 ft). Temperatures drop about 1o C for every 200 m gain in attitude. Starting off in the morning wearing a jacket, I was still wearing it when we reached Horombo Hut. Adjustable clothing would help keep a person from getting too hot or too cold, but I wasn’t exerting myself overmuch so wasn’t sweating. Florian didn’t need to remind me, “Polé, polé,” (slowly, slowly in Swahili). He did remind me to drink water.
It was beginning to get dark when we arrived at Mandara Hut. Although the name might suggest one building, there are a number of wooden structures. Often people use the plural as in Mandara Huts, Horombo Huts, and Kibo Huts, but the signs at each camp are in the singular. Probably, originally, there was just one hut at each encampment.
The first thing to do at Mandara Hut was to sign in, as it would be also at the other two camps, and get a key for the room where I would be staying. When I entered my room, there was the duffel bag on my bed with my sleeping bag and dry clothes. My poncho hadn’t kept me and my daypack completely dry. The room was one half of a divided cabin with a young German couple on the other side of the wall. It would be the only time that I had a room for myself.
After changing into dry clothes, I headed for the dining hall. It was dark by this time. At low latitudes there is little twilight. I made my way to the dining room without using my headlamp. Later I would learn to take my headlamp with me to the dining room even when going there in daylight. When returning to my room after supper, it would be dark. Mealtimes were also an opportunity to talk to other climbers sitting at adjacent tables. During the next few days, I would get to know a number of people.
That evening, Florian joined me for a good supper. I don’t remember if the meat dish was beef or chicken, nor whether we ate rice or potatoes. Meals were generally the kind of food with which Westerners are accustomed. We had mugs into which we could add a choice of tea, coffee, or Milo before pouring in hot water. I would eventually settle on Milo only so they didn’t need to bother bringing out the tea and coffee. I didn’t drink any Coca-Cola.
In an advisory of what to drink, besides water, I had read: If you drink caffeine (coffee, tea, soda) regularly, do not stop drinking it before or during your trip. Caffeine is safe at high altitudes, and stopping it suddenly can cause symptoms similar to AMS.
Different people have different opinions. I read another advisory saying that drinking caffeine can cause problems. (Coca-Cola contains caffeine but no longer contains cocaine.)
Suppertime was the time when Florian measured my pulse and oxygen saturation level. He would put a pulse oximeter on my forefinger. My pulse was okay, but the saturation of oxygen in my blood may have been a bit low though he didn’t comment on it. 95% to 100% is normal.
The dining hall was dimly lit by battery power, with the batteries charged during the day by solar panels. There was also the occasional outside light, such as the one outside the toilet facility. I visited that facility before going to bed, finding only squat-down toilets, common in Africa. There at Mandara Hut on the edge of the rain forest there is an ample supply of water to flush the toilets and provide for people who don’t use toilet paper. These are the W.C. (Water Closet) type of toilet. Other routes usually have pit latrines.
At daybreak the next morning, my personal porter, Omben, brought me hot water and the usual choice of beverages. He also brought a basin of warm water for washing, as he would do on all subsequent mornings. He told me that breakfast would be ready, I think it was, in about three-quarters of an hour’s time, and I should have the duffel bag packed before going for breakfast.
Sipping Milo, washing, getting dressed, and visiting the toilet facility took time. Thus I didn’t have the duffel bag packed before being called for breakfast. I ate a hurried breakfast then returned to my room to pack my sleeping bag in the duffel bag, my still damp clothes which I put in ziplock plastic bags, and other things that I had taken out of the bag for the night. Consequently, Florian and I ended up starting out later than planned. Not a problem. Hiking time to Horombo Hut would be about seven hours.
This was one of the nicest days of the climb. It had stopped raining, at that altitude anyway. The higher we climbed, the drier it got. If we hadn’t had a late start, or the day before if we had arrived at Mandara Hut sooner, we might have gone on a side trip to Maundi Crater where we could have looked out over Kenya. The border between Tanzania and Kenya runs along the north-east side of Kilimanjaro, making a jog, in fact, so that all of Kilimanjaro is included in Tanzania.
Soon after leaving Mandara Hut, we left the rainforest and entered what is described as heath and moorland, with giant groundsel getting smaller the higher we climbed. There was at least one boardwalk that I remember over an area that would have been wet during a wetter season of the year.
Around noon we stopped to enjoy our packed lunches, always ample good food. In fact, it was often more than I wanted to eat. I was told to eat up––extra food was needed for extra energy. An American father and daughter were also eating at another concrete table, but didn’t get to eat all of their lunch. A raven swooped down and stole a cupcake right off their table.
This day’s climb was longer and steeper, climbing to Horombo Hut at 3,720 m (12,200 ft). Temperatures drop about 1o C for every 200 m gain in attitude. Starting off in the morning wearing a jacket, I was still wearing it when we reached Horombo Hut. Adjustable clothing would help keep a person from getting too hot or too cold, but I wasn’t exerting myself overmuch so wasn’t sweating. Florian didn’t need to remind me, “Polé, polé,” (slowly, slowly in Swahili). He did remind me to drink water.
Horombo Hut is the hub of the Marangu Route. It is even accessible by road, a road being necessary for the extensive construction there. A large building was being built while I was there, probably to replace a number of the A-Frame huts that had been burned a couple of years earlier in a wildfire. The landscape didn’t look as though it would fuel much of a fire, but before the fire there could have been more growth.
As well as the numerous buildings, there are banks of solar panels with which to charge batteries to provide light at night. There are even electrical outlets in most rooms. A radio tower meant that there was power for Wi-Fi. Civilization!
After signing in, this time not getting a key, Florian led me to the room that I would be sharing with an Italian man and a young Japanese guy. Fortunately for me, poor at learning languages, the international language is English. When conversing with the Japanese guy, we discovered that we had been in some of the same places on other continents, although I had been there a few decades earlier. He also had visited Machu Picchu in Peru and climbed Huayna Picchu, 2,720 m (8,920 ft). There are even stone steps to the top of Huayna Picchu.
The Japanese guy showed me how I could access the Wi-Fi and make a phone call to Canada over WhatsApp. At Horombo, climbers are allowed a half hour free Wi-Fi per day. He charged his phone using a power outlet in our room. I could have done the same if I had brought an adaptor with me instead of leaving it in my luggage at the hotel in Moshi. Tanzania has two plug types, types D and G. Plug type D is the plug which has three round pins in a triangular pattern and plug type G is the plug which has two flat parallel pins and a grounding pin. Tanzania operates on a 230V supply voltage and 50Hz. The voltage and the hertz, of course, were not the case at Horombo.
The Italian man was the one with whom I communicated the most. We talked of hiking to Zebra Rocks the following morning. Zebra Rocks are large volcanic rocks with a striped pattern resembling that of a zebra, formed when mineral rich rainwater flowed down the rocks. Hiking to Zebra Rocks was the popular thing to do during the acclimatization day. We would climb for about half an hour to an altitude 300 m (920 ft) higher than Horombo, then return to Horombo for lunch.
As well as drinking a lot, climbers are encouraged to eat a lot. Shortly after I had arrived at Horombo Hut, Omben had brought me a large bowl of popcorn, a speciality at Horombo. Westerners like to eat their maize popped, it is assumed. Maize, as the English call it, is a common food in Tanzania. The national dish, ugali, is made from boiled cornmeal paste, and is served with almost every meal.
Horombo has nice, clean washrooms. Some brave men even took cold-water showers. I was more concerned with keeping dry and having a dry change of clothes. Despite that afternoon being somewhat humid, I hung out my still damp clothes from the rainforest over the railings of the stairs to my room. Afternoons at Horombo are generally misty when clouds rise from below, but mornings can be sunny. In fact, the next morning, my clothes were soon dry.
It was in the morning that I learned that Florian had other plans. Instead of spending two nights at Horombo, he was thinking of climbing to Kibo Hut that day, spending the night there, then setting out up the rim of the crater early the following morning. We could visit Zebra Rocks taking the slightly longer Mwenzi alternative route from Kibo Hut to Horombo Hut, passing right by Zebra Rocks. If we didn’t climb to Kibo Hut that day, Florian asked me, would I be able to sleep only half a night at Kibo Hut, attempting the climb, as most do, in the middle of the night. I said that I could make the night climb.
As well as the numerous buildings, there are banks of solar panels with which to charge batteries to provide light at night. There are even electrical outlets in most rooms. A radio tower meant that there was power for Wi-Fi. Civilization!
After signing in, this time not getting a key, Florian led me to the room that I would be sharing with an Italian man and a young Japanese guy. Fortunately for me, poor at learning languages, the international language is English. When conversing with the Japanese guy, we discovered that we had been in some of the same places on other continents, although I had been there a few decades earlier. He also had visited Machu Picchu in Peru and climbed Huayna Picchu, 2,720 m (8,920 ft). There are even stone steps to the top of Huayna Picchu.
The Japanese guy showed me how I could access the Wi-Fi and make a phone call to Canada over WhatsApp. At Horombo, climbers are allowed a half hour free Wi-Fi per day. He charged his phone using a power outlet in our room. I could have done the same if I had brought an adaptor with me instead of leaving it in my luggage at the hotel in Moshi. Tanzania has two plug types, types D and G. Plug type D is the plug which has three round pins in a triangular pattern and plug type G is the plug which has two flat parallel pins and a grounding pin. Tanzania operates on a 230V supply voltage and 50Hz. The voltage and the hertz, of course, were not the case at Horombo.
The Italian man was the one with whom I communicated the most. We talked of hiking to Zebra Rocks the following morning. Zebra Rocks are large volcanic rocks with a striped pattern resembling that of a zebra, formed when mineral rich rainwater flowed down the rocks. Hiking to Zebra Rocks was the popular thing to do during the acclimatization day. We would climb for about half an hour to an altitude 300 m (920 ft) higher than Horombo, then return to Horombo for lunch.
As well as drinking a lot, climbers are encouraged to eat a lot. Shortly after I had arrived at Horombo Hut, Omben had brought me a large bowl of popcorn, a speciality at Horombo. Westerners like to eat their maize popped, it is assumed. Maize, as the English call it, is a common food in Tanzania. The national dish, ugali, is made from boiled cornmeal paste, and is served with almost every meal.
Horombo has nice, clean washrooms. Some brave men even took cold-water showers. I was more concerned with keeping dry and having a dry change of clothes. Despite that afternoon being somewhat humid, I hung out my still damp clothes from the rainforest over the railings of the stairs to my room. Afternoons at Horombo are generally misty when clouds rise from below, but mornings can be sunny. In fact, the next morning, my clothes were soon dry.
It was in the morning that I learned that Florian had other plans. Instead of spending two nights at Horombo, he was thinking of climbing to Kibo Hut that day, spending the night there, then setting out up the rim of the crater early the following morning. We could visit Zebra Rocks taking the slightly longer Mwenzi alternative route from Kibo Hut to Horombo Hut, passing right by Zebra Rocks. If we didn’t climb to Kibo Hut that day, Florian asked me, would I be able to sleep only half a night at Kibo Hut, attempting the climb, as most do, in the middle of the night. I said that I could make the night climb.
So we hiked to Zebra Rocks, along the way getting great views of Kibo (the highest of the Kilimanjaro peaks) and Mwenzi, the second highest peak. Mwenzi means “broken,” so named because of its jagged peaks. It is off-limits to climbers because of loose rock making climbing dangerous. We took photos of Kibo, Mwenzi, and Zebra Rocks, returned for lunch, then rested during the afternoon.
At suppertime when Florian brought out the oximeter and measured my blood oxygen saturation level, it was down to 75%. Not knowing at that time what it should be, and seeing that Florian didn’t express concern, I wasn’t concerned. I have since read: “If you're using an oximeter at home and your oxygen saturation level is 92% or lower, call your healthcare provider. If it's at 88% or lower, get to the nearest emergency room as soon as possible.”
During the night, my Italian roommate was coughing quite a bit. Before morning, he was up, dressed, and standing beside his bed. He told me that he had trouble breathing when lying down. Being in the medical profession himself, he knew what the problem was. He had acute pulmonary edema and needed to get to a lower altitude as quickly as possible. I was to learn later from corresponding with him once he returned to Italy, that he began to cough up blood and that his oxygen saturation level was down to 60%. A rescue vehicle took him back down the mountain.
Talking about edema, there is another form of altitude sickness, though rare, that is even more serious than acute pulmonary edema. It is acute cerebral edema. Whereas pulmonary edema is fluid accumulation in the lungs, cerebral edema is fluid accumulation in the brain. Symptoms can be brain fog or extreme weakness. While at Horombo Hut, Florian and I witnessed a large man being brought to his room by wheeled rescue stretcher. Florian said he had acute mountain sickness. It was probably one or the other form of enema.
Horombo Hut is high enough that a sizable portion of lowland people could get altitude sickness. That is, if they don’t get acclimatized gradually. Symptoms of altitude sickness usually occur within 6 to 12 hours after arrival, but can develop as late as 24 hours after arriving. More than 75% of climbers will experience at least mild symptoms of altitude sickness when climbing Kilimanjaro. Physical condition is not a significant factor in whether or not a person will get sick, though in my Italian roommate’s case he did admit that he had previous lung problems.
In the morning, our porters brought us the usual hot drinks and warm washing water, but my Italian roommate was much more interested in getting a rescue vehicle to take him down the mountain than he was in washing or sipping a hot drink. I packed the duffel bag ready for my porter to pick up, and left for breakfast.
We ate a hearty breakfast. At least Florian did. I didn’t have much of an appetite myself. Actually, loss of appetite is one of the symptoms of mild altitude sickness. Another is the inability to sleep properly. I hadn’t slept much that night, attributing my fitful sleeping to my Italian roommate’s coughing. Other symptoms of mountain sickness can be much like that of a hangover. We were on the Coca-Cola route, however, not the whiskey route.
After collecting my daypack and saying goodbye to my Italian roommate, I followed Florian up the mountain polé, polé. I was feeling a bit weaker than usual but not out of breath. Not even on the steepest climb was I ever breathing through my mouth rather than through my nose. When Florian asked me, I told him, truthfully, that I didn’t feel nauseous and didn’t have a headache. He advised me to keep drinking water.
The alpine desert is barren but beautiful in its own way. There is little life, besides human life along the trail up the mountain. When porters passed us carrying their loads, I was often the first to say jambo[hello]. If they greeted me first, they might use a different greeting which required a different response, and I couldn’t remember what the appropriate response was.
We arrived at Kibo Hut that afternoon. I signed in, got assigned a hut, selected a bunk, and unpacked my sleeping bag ready for an early night. The plan was to get a few hours of sleep before setting off for the summit in the middle of the night. The next morning, climbers would return to Kibo Hut for breakfast before descending to Marangu Gate.
Supper began before sunset and ended after sunset. I had remembered to bring my headlamp to supper. I don’t remember if Florian measured my blood oxygen saturation level, but if he did, it may have been below 75%. But I wasn’t feeling nauseous. I wasn’t feeling hungry either so didn’t eat as much as I should have.
After returning to my hut––the hut dimly lit by battery power––I replaced the batteries in my headlamp ready for the climb that night. I packed my daypack with only the essentials for the summit attempt, including a couple of the energy bars that I had been advised to bring for the climb. My reasoning for packing only a couple was that I would be reluctant to take off my gloves and mitts in order to eat an energy bar.
The water bladder would be of no use in freezing weather so I filled my water bottle with bottled water that I had been given and put it in my backpack. Florian had advised me to pack the water bottle upside-down. That way, if some of the water froze, I could still drink the rest of the water.
Around 11 pm, I was roused from my nice, warm sleeping bag. It was time to prepare to climb. I dressed warmly, paying special attention to extremities such as feet, hands and head. But I wore only two layers of pants rather than the recommended three. That would be warm enough. Outside, and at that lower altitude, it wasn’t yet below 0o Celsius.
The three of us set out––Florian, me, and Omben, my summit porter, carrying my day/night pack. The switchback trail ascended fairly steeply up the crater rim, the scree still loose as it wasn’t yet frozen. We climbed slowly. Other groups who had left Kibo Hut after us, passed us. While they were passing, we had to step to one side and wait while they passed. I wanted to rest a while longer after they had passed but Florian said that rest stops should not be long at that altitude.
Rest stops were an opportunity for me to admire the stars, large and bright at that altitude. I was reminded of star gazing while sleeping on a rooftop in the Middle East. There too, the night sky is brilliant. And there the air is pleasantly warm, cooling somewhat during the night. On Kilimanjaro, the air was unpleasantly cold, with the promise of it getting colder.
We continued. The next time that I wanted a rest, Florian suggested that I give up and turn back. I refused. We carried on. Finally, when I again stopped to rest, Florian convinced me that I wouldn’t make it. He said that I needed to turn back before they had to carry me back. Although there were no signs of altitude sickness besides my general weakness, I submitted. We turned back. Part of the way back Florian or Omben took one of my hiking poles and allowed me to put a hand on his shoulder for extra support.
At suppertime when Florian brought out the oximeter and measured my blood oxygen saturation level, it was down to 75%. Not knowing at that time what it should be, and seeing that Florian didn’t express concern, I wasn’t concerned. I have since read: “If you're using an oximeter at home and your oxygen saturation level is 92% or lower, call your healthcare provider. If it's at 88% or lower, get to the nearest emergency room as soon as possible.”
During the night, my Italian roommate was coughing quite a bit. Before morning, he was up, dressed, and standing beside his bed. He told me that he had trouble breathing when lying down. Being in the medical profession himself, he knew what the problem was. He had acute pulmonary edema and needed to get to a lower altitude as quickly as possible. I was to learn later from corresponding with him once he returned to Italy, that he began to cough up blood and that his oxygen saturation level was down to 60%. A rescue vehicle took him back down the mountain.
Talking about edema, there is another form of altitude sickness, though rare, that is even more serious than acute pulmonary edema. It is acute cerebral edema. Whereas pulmonary edema is fluid accumulation in the lungs, cerebral edema is fluid accumulation in the brain. Symptoms can be brain fog or extreme weakness. While at Horombo Hut, Florian and I witnessed a large man being brought to his room by wheeled rescue stretcher. Florian said he had acute mountain sickness. It was probably one or the other form of enema.
Horombo Hut is high enough that a sizable portion of lowland people could get altitude sickness. That is, if they don’t get acclimatized gradually. Symptoms of altitude sickness usually occur within 6 to 12 hours after arrival, but can develop as late as 24 hours after arriving. More than 75% of climbers will experience at least mild symptoms of altitude sickness when climbing Kilimanjaro. Physical condition is not a significant factor in whether or not a person will get sick, though in my Italian roommate’s case he did admit that he had previous lung problems.
In the morning, our porters brought us the usual hot drinks and warm washing water, but my Italian roommate was much more interested in getting a rescue vehicle to take him down the mountain than he was in washing or sipping a hot drink. I packed the duffel bag ready for my porter to pick up, and left for breakfast.
We ate a hearty breakfast. At least Florian did. I didn’t have much of an appetite myself. Actually, loss of appetite is one of the symptoms of mild altitude sickness. Another is the inability to sleep properly. I hadn’t slept much that night, attributing my fitful sleeping to my Italian roommate’s coughing. Other symptoms of mountain sickness can be much like that of a hangover. We were on the Coca-Cola route, however, not the whiskey route.
After collecting my daypack and saying goodbye to my Italian roommate, I followed Florian up the mountain polé, polé. I was feeling a bit weaker than usual but not out of breath. Not even on the steepest climb was I ever breathing through my mouth rather than through my nose. When Florian asked me, I told him, truthfully, that I didn’t feel nauseous and didn’t have a headache. He advised me to keep drinking water.
The alpine desert is barren but beautiful in its own way. There is little life, besides human life along the trail up the mountain. When porters passed us carrying their loads, I was often the first to say jambo[hello]. If they greeted me first, they might use a different greeting which required a different response, and I couldn’t remember what the appropriate response was.
We arrived at Kibo Hut that afternoon. I signed in, got assigned a hut, selected a bunk, and unpacked my sleeping bag ready for an early night. The plan was to get a few hours of sleep before setting off for the summit in the middle of the night. The next morning, climbers would return to Kibo Hut for breakfast before descending to Marangu Gate.
Supper began before sunset and ended after sunset. I had remembered to bring my headlamp to supper. I don’t remember if Florian measured my blood oxygen saturation level, but if he did, it may have been below 75%. But I wasn’t feeling nauseous. I wasn’t feeling hungry either so didn’t eat as much as I should have.
After returning to my hut––the hut dimly lit by battery power––I replaced the batteries in my headlamp ready for the climb that night. I packed my daypack with only the essentials for the summit attempt, including a couple of the energy bars that I had been advised to bring for the climb. My reasoning for packing only a couple was that I would be reluctant to take off my gloves and mitts in order to eat an energy bar.
The water bladder would be of no use in freezing weather so I filled my water bottle with bottled water that I had been given and put it in my backpack. Florian had advised me to pack the water bottle upside-down. That way, if some of the water froze, I could still drink the rest of the water.
Around 11 pm, I was roused from my nice, warm sleeping bag. It was time to prepare to climb. I dressed warmly, paying special attention to extremities such as feet, hands and head. But I wore only two layers of pants rather than the recommended three. That would be warm enough. Outside, and at that lower altitude, it wasn’t yet below 0o Celsius.
The three of us set out––Florian, me, and Omben, my summit porter, carrying my day/night pack. The switchback trail ascended fairly steeply up the crater rim, the scree still loose as it wasn’t yet frozen. We climbed slowly. Other groups who had left Kibo Hut after us, passed us. While they were passing, we had to step to one side and wait while they passed. I wanted to rest a while longer after they had passed but Florian said that rest stops should not be long at that altitude.
Rest stops were an opportunity for me to admire the stars, large and bright at that altitude. I was reminded of star gazing while sleeping on a rooftop in the Middle East. There too, the night sky is brilliant. And there the air is pleasantly warm, cooling somewhat during the night. On Kilimanjaro, the air was unpleasantly cold, with the promise of it getting colder.
We continued. The next time that I wanted a rest, Florian suggested that I give up and turn back. I refused. We carried on. Finally, when I again stopped to rest, Florian convinced me that I wouldn’t make it. He said that I needed to turn back before they had to carry me back. Although there were no signs of altitude sickness besides my general weakness, I submitted. We turned back. Part of the way back Florian or Omben took one of my hiking poles and allowed me to put a hand on his shoulder for extra support.
Back at Kibo Hut, I returned to my sleeping bag which soon became nice and warm again. But I wasn’t to enjoy it for long. Florian came to my room to tell me that I needed to get up and begin descending to Horombo Hut. I got up, got dressed, packed the duffel bag and my daypack, and we began descending. It is, of course, easier going downhill than uphill, but I was slow and cautious, knowing that there was more danger of slipping when going down than when going up. 90% of accidents are on the descent. We passed a wheeled rescue stretcher along the way, ready for use, after adding a mattress, in case someone got injured.
Although disappointed because of failing to reach the summit, I remember appreciating the scenery along the way more than when I had climbed that same way the day before. Some cyclist passed us going up the mountain. Florian told me that on the switchback trail going up the crater rim, porters would be carrying their bikes. I have since heard that a few hardy bikers have ridden, pushed, or carried their bikes all the way to the summit without using porters. Even biking down that switchback trail would be difficult. It would be easier if the scree were frozen, but, at the time of year when I was there, it is frozen only late at night or early in the morning.
When we arrived at Horombo Hut, Florian told me that we needed to take the rescue vehicle back down the mountain. If we were to descend to Marangu Gate at the same rate as we descended from Kibo Hut to Horombo Hut, it would take us nine hours to get to there. I reluctantly agreed to take the rescue vehicle, after confirming that it wouldn’t be an extra expense for Popote Africa Adventures.
It is customary for the guide, cook, and porters to put on a little performance for those they had helped climb Kilimanjaro. Ordinarily, this is at the base of the mountain after the descent. As I was, in a sense, finishing my climb there at Horombo Hut, they put on the performance there. In order to get everyone, including me, in the video, they got someone from the porters’ quarters to take the video with my phone/camera. After the ceremony, the cook and porters set of on foot down the mountain.
Although disappointed because of failing to reach the summit, I remember appreciating the scenery along the way more than when I had climbed that same way the day before. Some cyclist passed us going up the mountain. Florian told me that on the switchback trail going up the crater rim, porters would be carrying their bikes. I have since heard that a few hardy bikers have ridden, pushed, or carried their bikes all the way to the summit without using porters. Even biking down that switchback trail would be difficult. It would be easier if the scree were frozen, but, at the time of year when I was there, it is frozen only late at night or early in the morning.
When we arrived at Horombo Hut, Florian told me that we needed to take the rescue vehicle back down the mountain. If we were to descend to Marangu Gate at the same rate as we descended from Kibo Hut to Horombo Hut, it would take us nine hours to get to there. I reluctantly agreed to take the rescue vehicle, after confirming that it wouldn’t be an extra expense for Popote Africa Adventures.
It is customary for the guide, cook, and porters to put on a little performance for those they had helped climb Kilimanjaro. Ordinarily, this is at the base of the mountain after the descent. As I was, in a sense, finishing my climb there at Horombo Hut, they put on the performance there. In order to get everyone, including me, in the video, they got someone from the porters’ quarters to take the video with my phone/camera. After the ceremony, the cook and porters set of on foot down the mountain.
It is also customary to tip the guide, cook, and porters. On the Marangu Route, however, there is a restriction on the amount of cash a person can take onto the mountain, perhaps because of the possibility of thefts. Thus, I didn’t have enough cash with me for the tips. I had left it with my luggage back at the hotel. The prescribed tip was $20 USD per day for the guide, $15 per day for the cook, $12 per day for the summit porter, and $10 per day for the other porters. They would have to wait until I returned to the hotel.
While waiting to be rescued, I shared a room with a French couple who were going up the mountain. The young lady didn’t seem embarrassed to have a strange man in the room while she was changing clothes. It would also be proper to discreetly look away when, on the trail, a member of the opposite sex was relieving him or herself. When I went on a long bus ride a couple of days after the climb, and the bus stopped beside the highway for a break, us men went in front of the bushes and the women went behind.
At last the rescue jeep arrived. Eight of us, with our daypacks, crowded in beside and behind the driver. I sat between two Russians and an English lady. The English lady had to sit with her back against the side of the jeep so that I and the two Russians could sit back on our seat. The trip took a couple of hours as it was slow going, the track having a number of places where the driver needed to slow down to a crawl.
Leaving the park, we drove along the main road to Marangu Gate. Florian went to sign me out and attend to whatever other details were necessary. I waited in the pavilion where other groups were about to each lunch. After a while, Omben came to see me. The cook and porters had made it down the mountain.
The Popote Africa van arrived and we all headed off for Moshi, stopping along the way for a good meal. At the hotel in Moshi, I retrieved my luggage and gave the crew their tips. Then I took a long shower. Not to discredit the luxury hotel in which I was staying, but with the new room I was given on my return, the water pressure in the bathroom was quite low. As I said, I took a long shower.
While waiting to be rescued, I shared a room with a French couple who were going up the mountain. The young lady didn’t seem embarrassed to have a strange man in the room while she was changing clothes. It would also be proper to discreetly look away when, on the trail, a member of the opposite sex was relieving him or herself. When I went on a long bus ride a couple of days after the climb, and the bus stopped beside the highway for a break, us men went in front of the bushes and the women went behind.
At last the rescue jeep arrived. Eight of us, with our daypacks, crowded in beside and behind the driver. I sat between two Russians and an English lady. The English lady had to sit with her back against the side of the jeep so that I and the two Russians could sit back on our seat. The trip took a couple of hours as it was slow going, the track having a number of places where the driver needed to slow down to a crawl.
Leaving the park, we drove along the main road to Marangu Gate. Florian went to sign me out and attend to whatever other details were necessary. I waited in the pavilion where other groups were about to each lunch. After a while, Omben came to see me. The cook and porters had made it down the mountain.
The Popote Africa van arrived and we all headed off for Moshi, stopping along the way for a good meal. At the hotel in Moshi, I retrieved my luggage and gave the crew their tips. Then I took a long shower. Not to discredit the luxury hotel in which I was staying, but with the new room I was given on my return, the water pressure in the bathroom was quite low. As I said, I took a long shower.